|
|
|
Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Classico Riserva 1997
A benchmark vintage. While fantastic enough to drink now, this wine will only get better if you hold on to it. A long two weeks, from September 24 to October 10, with extremely high temperatures. The yield was below average, but the grapes were very ripe and healthy. Extremely high sugar levels; varying levels of acidity due to the long, hot harvest. 1997 was the first year that Borgogno used automatic, temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Alcoholic fermentation lasted about 15 days, with a floating cap, at 68-70°F. 40% of the wine then underwent submerged cap maceration until November 10. The wines were then blended. Malolactic fermentation was completed by the second week in November.
Wine Advocate
1997 Borgogno Barolo Classico Riserva-Dark translucent color. This full-bodied wine boasts a rich luxurious nose of very ripe sweet fruits, licorice, anise and mint and a dense, brooding palate of evolved dark fruits, finishing with good length and plenty of tannins. 90 points/drink after 2007, 12/04 The estate produces three Barolos. The first of these is a normale that is made from fruit purchased from various sources, although the Boschis brothers want to focus on making wines from their own holdings and will no longer produce this wine. The Barolo Classico is made from a blend of five estate-owned vineyards in Barolo. The Classico comes in two versions: newly released bottles simply indicate the vintage, while later-released bottles indicate are labeled "Riserva." Lastly in some vintages Borgogno also issues a single-vineyard wine is made from the Liste cru in Barolo. Because of practical considerations arising from the small quantities made of this wine, a portion of the Liste is aged in tonneaux, while the normale and the Classico are aged exclusively in very large casks. Despite their mid-weight size, these are deceptively muscular and austere wines that will require significant cellaring to be at their best and that will last for decades. In a way, these Barolos may never be "ready." I am reminded of the adage used to describe vintage port that says that you drink from your parents' cellar and buy for your childrens'. A visit to this historic estate is like stepping back in time as the winery is a monument of sorts to traditional winemaking. The winery preserves many antique tools related to viticulture and winemaking as well as an extensive library of older bottles. The wines tend to be mid-weight, and share a classic, somewhat austere style. While the Dolcetto and Barbera are good, the real attractions here are the various Barolo bottlings which at their best are very complete and age-worthy wines. The recently tasted 1952 and 1961 Borgogno Barolos are a testament to the longevity of this house's wines.
Score: 90.
—Antonio Galloni,
April
2005.
Customers who purchased this item also bought:
All sizes are 750mL unless otherwise noted.
Vintages and ratings subject to change at any time.
All pricing and availability subject to change.
|
